Le Marais, Revisited

Earlier today, Meyer Haroch (from The New York Jewish Guide) and I were at a business lunch in Le Marais (150 46th Street, between 6th and 7th Avenue, in Manhattan; Tel:212.869.0900). When we first reviewed the restaurant on these pages we wrote:

Le Marais has been the yardstick by which all other kosher restaurants are measured.

That still is the case, the portions are generous and cooked to perfection; the flavors, the ambiance are uniquely Parisian. Meyer ordered the Lunch Special (Steak, Frites and Salade)…

The aroma wafted throughout the area, as it bespoke of intense flavors that would have made even the most exacting gastronomes of old, salivate in anticipation. Meyer said the steak was very juicy and indeed very flavorful… as expected.

I ordered their triple layer Hamburger…

Though I was warned it would take 20 minutes to prepare, when it came it was obvious the wait had been more than worthwhile. Full of flavor, filled with red beats, and just the right amount of juiciness. As delightful to the palate, as it was to the eyes, it also came with salade and frites that were just crisp enough without sacrificing taste. I washed it down with a beer from Spain, Estrella Galicia. It poured a golden yellow with a fizzy white head, moderate to high carbonation with a very faint malt aroma. Its bland taste neither overpowered, nor detracted from the scrumptious hamburger which I had trouble finishing. Rather, this beer subtly complemented and enhanced the rich flavors of the meat.

Yes, it was a delightful lunch but one expects that from Le Marais!

CS

Tortilla -Wrapped Round Steak

Another recipe from the Lobel Brothers’ cookbook:

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 pounds skirt steak, trimmed about 1 1/2 inches thick
• 1 recipe Toasted Cumin Marinade *
• Vegetable oil cooking spray
• 1 large white onion, cut about 1/2 inch thick
• 2 to 3 tablespoons Canola oil
• Coarsely ground black pepper to taste
• Twelve 7 inch flour tortillas
• Chopped tomatoes
• Chopped pickled jalapeno peppers
• chopped cilantro or flat- leaf parsley
• Baja-style tomato salsa * (optional)

Directions

1. Put the steak in a glass or ceramic dish and add the marinade, turning the steaks several times to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 4 to 8 hours.
2. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. Lightly spray the grill rack with vegetable oil cooking spray. The coats should be moderately hot to hot.
3. Lift the steak from the marinade, letting the marinade drip back into the dish. Grill the meat for 8 minutes, brushing several times with the marinade during the first 5 minutesof grilling. (The oil in the marinade may cause flare-ups). Turn and grill for 8 to 10 minutes longer until medium-rare, or until it reaches desired degree of doneness. Let the meat rest for a few minutes.
4. Place the onion slices near the outside of the grillaway from the most intense heat, brush with oil, and sprinkle with the pepper. Turn once or twice, brushing with more oil, and grill for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the onions are lightly browned and tender. While they cook, wrap the tortillas in foil, place the packet on the outside edge of the grill, and let the tortillas warm while the steak and onions are cooking.
5. Slice the steak into strips and separate the onions into rings. Arrange the steak, onions, chopped tomatoes, and jalapenos in the tortillas and wrap into a sandwich. Garnish with cilantro and top with salsa, if desired.

* Toasted Cumin Marinade

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

Toasting spices enhances their flavors and this marinade, which combines some of the classic flavors of Asia, is wonderful with chicken, beef, you name it.

Ingredients

• 1 cup Canola oil
• 1/2 cup fresh lime or lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon toasted cumin seeds (see Note)
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Directions

Whisk together all the ingredients in a glass or ceramic bowl until blended. Adjust the seasonings. Use according to the recipe, or cover and refrigerate for as long as 2 days.

Note: To toast the cumin seeds, spread them in a dry skillet and toast them over medium heat, shaking the pan to prevent scorching, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until fragrant. Transfer the seeds to a plate to cool and stop the cooking.

* Baja-Style Tomato Salsa

Makes about 2 cups

This type of salsa, made with fresh with chopped tomatoes, bell peppers, and herbs, is a classic salsa fresca – which means it’s not cooked. Serve this with just about any meat or poultry. We especially like it on burgers.

Ingredients

• 1 pound tomatoes, chopped
• 2 yellow or red bell peppers, seeded and chopped
• 1 cup cooked corn kernels (see Note)
• 3 scallions, finely chopped
• 2 jalapeno or Serrano chillies, seeded and chopped
• 1 large clove garlic, minced
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
• 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
• 2 teaspoons cider vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Directions

Combine the tomatoes, peppers, corn, scallions, chillies, garlic, cilantro, lime juice, vinegar, and salt in a glass or ceramic bowl and stir gently to mix. Adjust the salt. Let the salsa stand for about an hour to let the flavors blend. Serve or cover and refrigeratefor several hours. Let the salsa come to room temperature before serving.

Note: You can use frozen corn kernels, cooked and cooled. For better flavor, use leftover boiled summer corn, or best yet, grill a few ears over hot coals or roast them in a very hot oven (400 F.) until the huskes blacken, which will take about 15 minutes and require turning several times. Let the corn cool and then slice the kernels from the cobs.

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!!!

CS

Cooking Steak at The Center For Kosher Culinary Arts

Did you ever have a perfect steak? I did, when I attended a session at CKCA, (1407 Coney Island Avenue; Brooklyn, NY 11230; 718.758.1339 – they are right above Happy Home Housewares) when Chef David Ritter was teaching class the evening class. Though I’m not a student at the school, like all those present my attention was fully taken by Chef David’s directions and explanations.

This particular session was devoted to making Steak au Poivre (Peppercorn Steak)…

Steak au Poivre

Below is the recipe Chef Ritter has graciously agreed to share with us. As you read, you’ll see how dramatic the very act of cooking this recipe can be:

Steak au Poivre

2 tournedos – Tender Beef Filets – preferably Rib Eye medallions

1½ ozs. Cognac (Brandy)

2 ozs. Non-Dairy Creamer

1 ozs. Shallots – chopped

1-2 ozs. Margarine (optional) cold & cubed

1tspn Black Pepper – crushed

½ tspn Green Peppercorns

2 tblspn Clarified Margarine or Olive Oil

3 ozs. Demi-Glace (or, buy boxed beef stock and reduce it by ¾)

Preparation

Step 1 – Season Filet w/ Salt & Pepper.
Step 2 – Sautée Both Sides in Clarified Butter or Oil.
Step 3 – Remove meat; add shallots & sweat, Deglaze food particles on pan with Cognac – FLAMBÉE!
**(MUST REMOVE PAN FROM HEAT WHEN POURING ALCOHOL INTO PAN)**
Step 4 – Add green peppercorns.
Step 5 – Add Creamer and Demi Glace, reduce ‘til slightly thick.
Step 6 – Swirl in some margarine cubes without boiling sauce (optional).
Step 7 – Arrange plate and pour sauce over meat.

The aroma will conquer you. Just surrender and enjoy the taste!

CS

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The Center for Kosher Culinary Arts

Unusually Creative and Delicious

Seth Warshaw, is the owner and executive chef of etc steakhouse (1409 Palisade Avenue; Teaneck, NJ 07666; Telephone: 201.357.5677). The De Gustibus School at Macy’s featured him as one of the top chefs in their The Fine Art of Kosher Cooking series.

Last week, Wednesday, I found my way to his establishment. It was a very pleasant, delicious experience and more than amply confirmed Salvatore Rizzo‘s (De Gustibus‘ owner) high assessment of Chef Seth.

The walls are painted red, otherwise the decor is rather spartan. The dishes I tasted showed tremendous creativity, a rare understanding of the riches of flavor and very nice presentation.

I started with their Pomegranate Rolled Rib Eye..

Pomegranate Rolled Rib Eye

It came accompanied with a pomegranate and Satsuma clementine salad in a grapefruit reduction. The aged rib eye was very tender and juicy. The flavors were a superb blend of meat and subtle fruit juices. Succulent!

I followed with Sweetbreads with Glazed Rutabaga.

Sweetbreads with Glazed Rutabaga

It consisted of superbly prepared sweetbreads with a delicate lima bean puree and glazed rutabaga with a balsamic reduction. I then moved on to the Pomegranate Hangar Steak.

Pomegranate Hangar Steak

Because of the rules of kashrus (where meats must be salted for an hour – to extract the blood – after soaking in water for 30 minutes), in spite of all the rinsing, the meat ultimately absorbs some salt. As a result hangar steaks are very salty. Chef Seth, however, has found a unique way of enhancing the steak’s flavor without one noticing the salt. The result is a very juicy, tender, steak; yet another tribute to the Chef’s creativity and knowledge of the blending of flavors. The steak came with a sweet potato mash, haricot verts, caramelized onion rings in a pomegranate reduction.

I topped off the meal with a House Made Zeppole Trio with vanilla ice cream. Each zeppole was covered with a different sprinkling. One had a combination of fine cinnamon and confectioner’s sugar, another a sprinkling of coconut and the third had cocoa powder. Fried Italian pastries, they were sweet and indescribably delicious. What a great way to crown a superb meal!

CS