Simplicity and Elegance Rolled Into One – Cooking with Lévana Kirschenbaum

Traditionally women have slaved away cleaning and cooking for Passover, almost making this season into something akin to an Egyptians’ Revenge. While there is no doubt that celebrating the sedorim (aside from the religious reasons) is beautiful, getting there is not easy. While we can’t make your cleaning either easier or faster, Lévana – in the video below – shows us how to cook faster, easier and still enjoy a feast!

Lévana regales us with three fast, delicious, wholesome recipes from her new book: The Whole Foods Kosher Kitchen – Glorious Meals Pure and Simple

Chicken and Swiss Chard

• 8 serving pieces chicken (2 pieces per person, for example: 6 thighs, 6 drumsticks, 4 half breasts – 16 pieces, total for 8 people) with skin on.
• 2 teaspoons turmeric
• 2 large bunches of Swiss chard, leaves and ribs sliced thin
• 3 cups water

Place all ingredients in a wide heavy pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce the flame to medium and cook covered for about an hour. Transfer the chicken pieces onto a platter. If the sauce is not thick enough, reduce it on a high flame, uncovered , just a few minutes until it reaches the consistency of maple syrup. Pour the sauce over the chicken. Serve hot. Makes 8 servings.

Salmon in Pomegranate Sweet-&-Sour Sauce

Sweet-and sour combinations work beautifully with salmon. The onions caramelize and contribute a sweet counterpoint to the vinegar. Another quick and delicious dish, just the way it I like it – one pan, one step.

• 1 whole side salmon, no skin, no bones, about 3 1/2 pounds, trimmed
• 1 large red onion, sliced very thin (use the food processor)
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1 cup pomegranate juice
• 1/4 cup unfiltered apple cider vinegar
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 teaspoon turmeric

Preheat the oven to 425 F. Place the salmon in a pan just large enough to accommodate the fish in one layer. Scatter the onions on top and on the sides of the fish. Mix the oil, juice, vinegar, tomato paste, salt, pepper and turmeric in a bowl, and pour over the fish. Cook about 20 minutes, or a tiny bit more until the fish flakes easily and the liquids thicken. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 8 main course servings or a dozen or more course servings.

Chocolate Dipped Fruits

• Bananas, orange, strawberries, pinneapple cubes, banana segments
• 2 cups very good quality semisweet chocolate chips
• 2 tablespoons oil

2 cups very good quality semisweet chocolate chips plus tablespoons vegetable oil. Melt in a small saucepan, on a very low flame, stirring, until just melted. Let cool just a few minutes, then dip only half way the fruit of your choice: strawberries, orange segments, pineapple cubes, banana segments etc… Arrange the dipped fruit on a platter sprayed with vegetable spray (to prevent the chocolate from sticking). Serve at room temperature.

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!

CS

Food and Sukkot

While there are no specific dishes associated with Sukkot, some lend themselves better to the sometimes chilly weather we are experiencing these days. The aromas, the warmth they evoke are just perfect for eating in the Sukkah. So, here is a superb recipe by one of New York’s favorite chefs, Jeff Nathan of Abigael’s on Broadway:

Photo by: Alison Nathan

Jeff Nathan’s
Tarragon Salmon Fillets with Vegetable Ragout

Dairy — Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided (2 tablespoons chilled)
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/8 teaspoon ground fennel seed, optional
• 5 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded, caps sliced
• 4 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed
• 1/2 pint grape tomatoes or halved cherry tomatoes
• 3/4 cup Vegetable Broth
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 4 7 to 8-ounce salmon fillets, skinned
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions:

1. Position a broiler rack about 6 inches from the source of heat and preheat the broiler.
2. To make the ragout, melt the butter with the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and fennel and cook, stirring often, until garlic gives off its aroma, about 1 minute. Add the shiitakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until they give off their juices, about 4 minutes. Stir in the sugar snap peas and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, broth, lemon juice, and tarragon. Bring the broth to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, until the tomatoes are heated through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, partially cover with a lid, and keep warm
3. Meanwhile, brush the salmon on both sides with the oil, sprinkle with the tarragon, and season with salt and pepper. Oil the broiler rack. Broil the fish, skin sides up, for 3 minutes. Turn and continue broiling until the fish is opaque in the center with a tinge of rose color when prodded with the tip of a sharp knife, about 5 minutes more for medium-rare salmon. Place each salmon fillet on a dinner plate.
4. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons chilled butter, cut into bits, to the vegetables. Stir with a wooden spoon, being careful not to break up the vegetables, to melt the butter. Season the ragout with salt and pepper. Spoon the ragout over the salmon and serve immediately.

Enjoy, gentle reader enjoy!

CS

Salmon in Lemon Sauce

It’s hard to believe that until about 21 months ago I had never eaten fish, other than a small piece of gefilte on Friday evenings (and even then, none too willingly!). Having learned how to enjoy them, thanks to Orchideä and the defunct Avenue Plaza Dining (both in Boro Park), I now savor the taste and appreciate the nutritional value of that which for decades I’d considered untouchable, inedible, food.

Since, I’ve made this recipe a few times because it tastes great and it’s easy:

Photo from: http://moderndayozzieandharriet.blogspot.com

Ingredients

• 4 tbsp. margarine
• 1 lb. salmon filets
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1/2 tsp tarragon
• 1 clove minced garlic
• 1 tsp. fresh chopped parsley
• 1 pinch oregano
• 3 oz. dry white wine
• 2 oz. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. capers
• 1 tbsp. cornstarch
• 1/2 cup cream
• 1/2 cup milk

Directions

1. Melt 2 tbsp butter in a skillet. Lightly salt and pepper the fish. Cook the fish over medium-high heat for about 4 to 5 minutes on each side.
2. Add the tarragon, garlic, parsley, oregano. When garlic browns add capers, white wine and lemon juice. Add salt and pepper to taste.
3. Remove fish from fire to a plate keeping it warm as you make the sauce. Melt the remaining butter in the same skillet. Whisk in the cornstarch; when smooth, add the cream and milk, whisking until smooth, cook until it thickens.
4. Simmer for one minute, return the fish to the pan, and reheat for another minute. Top fish with sauce and serve with rice.

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!

CS

Maple Roasted Pears and Sweet Potatoes and More

Susie Fishbein, best selling kosher cookbook author, graciously consented to share two of her recipes – from  her upcoming Kosher By Design – Teens and 20-Somethings – with our readers. I tried the first one last evening, after the fast, and loved it (and… I’m quite a few hours past my 20-somethings):

Maple Roasted Pears and Sweet Potatoes

DAIRY OR PARVE – YIELDS 6 SERVINGS

I adore these soft sweet pears and the way the sweet potatoes become sticky and sweet. You can try this with cubed butternut squash in addition to or in place of the sweet potatoes. While you have the maple syrup on hand, put the Pineapple Maple Glazed Salmon (page 134) on your menu for another night.

Ingredients

• 8 mini pears, such as Seckel, or 4 ripe Anjou pears, peeled, halved, cored, quartered
• 3 large sweet potatoes, (about 2 pounds) peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut into
  chunks the same size as the pears
• 6 tablespoons butter or margarine
• 1 cup pure maple syrup, NOT pancake syrup
• 1⁄2 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 325˚F.
2. For easy cleanup, completely cover a jelly roll pan with aluminum foil. Set aside.
3. As you cut up the pears and sweet potato, place them into a large bowl. Set
   aside.
4. In a medium pot, melt the butter or margarine over medium heat. Whisk in maple
   syrup and salt. Cook until it starts to bubble.
5. Remove from heat. Pour over the pears and sweet potatoes. Toss to coat.
   Transfer to prepared pan
6. Bake, uncovered, for 11⁄2 hours.
7. Transfer to a serving bowl or platter.

…and one more, can’t wait to try it!

Pineapple Maple Glazed Salmon

PARVE – YIELDS 6 SERVINGS

Ingredients

• 6 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, without skin, pin bones removed
• 1⁄4 cup maple syrup (NOT pancake syrup)
• 1⁄4 cup crushed pineapple, from a small can, squeezed dry
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 cloves fresh garlic, minced

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 375˚F.
2. Rinse the salmon and place it on a parchment-lined jelly roll pan. Pat dry with
   paper towels.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk the maple syrup, pineapple, soy sauce, mustard, olive
   oil, and garlic.
4. Pour over the salmon and bake, uncovered, for 15 minutes.
5. Transfer to serving platter. Drizzle with pan juices. Serve hot or at room
   temperature.

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!!

CS

Maple Roasted Pears and Sweet Potatoes

Nine Days’ Specials – Part 1

Considering we do not eat meat during the Nine Day (which started last evening and runs through the 20th, the day of Tisha B’Av  – 9th of Av, when the Romans burned down the Second Temple. It continued smoldering until noon the next day.) meat restaurants either close down during this period or readjust to a special menu.

Though at very opposite ends of the price spectrum, these two restaurants – among others – offer special menus for the Nine Days. While one is a high end eatery, outstanding in its delicious and very imaginative gourmet dishes, Mike’s Bistro, the other is a more down to earth establishment with superb sushi, great appetizers and tasty, wholesome, fish dishes 18 Restaurant, very moderately priced.

Mike’s Bistro: Nine Days’ Menu

Cold Appetizers

• Baby Spinach Salad red wine vinaigrette, boiled egg, tomatoes, red onions, chives
• Garden Vegetable Salad tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, peppers, avocado, snow pea shoots, parsley & lemon vinaigrette
• Portobello Mushroom and Arugula Salad balsamic reduction, red onions, enoki mushroom, crushed croutons, caesars style mushroom dressing
• Fresh Legume Salad mixed legumes, marinated tomato, sprouts, white wine vinaigrette
• *Roasted & Marinated Beet Salad candied walnuts, fresh citrus segments, orange beet vinaigrette, shaved endive, haricot vert

Roasted and Marinated Beet Salad

Hot Appetizers

• Hand Shucked Corn Chowder cajun mirepoix, diced fish, chili oil, fresh herbs
• Chipotle Spiced Bean Soup black rice, avocado, crispy corn tortilla, cilantro
• *Porcini & Wild Mushroom Consomme acini di pepe, shitake mushrooms, sliced portobello, fresh herbs
• Braised Royal Trumpet Mushrooms english pea puree, white asparagus, marinated tomato, mushroom glace, fresh herbs
• Fresh Cod Fritters frisee, house-made remoulade sauce

Main Courses

• Wild Striped Bass acini di pepe, fresh summer succotash, smoked vidalia onion vinaigrette
• Mushroom Scented Rice Noodles edamame, sprouts, carrot puree, exotic mushrooms, toasted sunflower seeds
• *Handmade Gnocchi “Ala Vodka” smoked salmon, fresh peas, fresh herbs
• Chinese Style Steamed Market Fish pan charred napa cabbage,  ginger, scallions, garlic, sesame oil
• Summer Squash Cannelloni spicy marinara sauce, breaded zucchini, fresh mint, extra virgin olive oil
• Grilled Hawaiian “Walu” Fish marinated artichokes, peppers, beans, capers, lemon vinaigrette, olive tapenade

*denotes signature item

18 restaurant: Nine Days’ Menu

Sushi

Eighteen Fresh Crisp Salads

• Eighteen Salad cucumbers, carrots, avocado, cherry tomatoes on top of mesclun, romaine lettuce
• Salad Nicoise white tuna salad, capers, olives, avocado, egg, cherry tomatoes on top of mesclun, romaine lettuce
• Grilled Fresh Salmon Salad grilled salmon steak on top of mesclun, romaine lettuce with assorted vegetables
• Tuna Salad Platter

All salads come dressed with a choice of balsamic vinaigrette, red wine vinaigrette, Thousand Island dressing or dill dressing

• Eighteen Tricolor Pasta Primavera
  

Eighteen Fresh Fish Selection

• Fish N Chips
• Pan Fried Filet of Sole
• Broiled Filet of Sole
• Salmon
• Chilean Sea Bass

All fish served with grilled vegetables and choice of French Fries, mashed potatoes or basmati rice

Eighteen Tasty Side Dishes

• Grilled Vegetables
• Mashed Potatoes
• Basmati Rice
• Homemade French Fries
• Potato Salad
• Coleslaw
• Sweet Red Pepper

Just because we can’t eat meat doesn’t we can’t eat well!

CS

Valentine’s Day Specials

T Fusion Steakhouse (3223 Quentin Road, Brooklyn, NY 11234 — Telephone 718.998.0002 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              718.998.0002      end_of_the_skype_highlighting). is extending their Valentine’s Day Special Prix Fix Menu through Tuesday, the 16th of February.

Chicken Lollipos

“Valentine’s Day Menu”

Please select one from each course:

STARTER

House Salad
Mixed greens, tomatoes, Julienne cucumber, carrots, onions topped with balsamic

Roasted Beet Salad
Arugula, roasted beets, red pepper, candied walnuts, and granny smith apples with cider vinaigrette dressing

Chicken Lollipops
Corn flake crumb crusted chicken drumsticks served with sweet & sour sauce

ENTRÉE

Cowboy Steak
(16oz)Bone-in prime rib cut with cowboy seasoning served with house fries & Garlic

Roasted Chicken
Half roasted chicken, slowly cooked, served with rice and mixed garden vegetables

Fillet Salad
Sliced filled steak strips served over romaine lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, and avocado topped with honey mustard dressing

Pan Seared Salmon
Served with fresh lemon and homemade yellow rice

DESSERT

Red Velvet
Layers of red velvet and non-dairy cream cheese Valentine’s Day cake

Duo Fondue
Perfect for the couple: array of fruits, and sweets for chocolate dipping

Chocolate Soufflé
Freshly baked and served with ice cream

Sorbet
Raspberry/ Strawberry/ Fresh Mint

$55 per Person plus Tax & Gratuity

Valid Until Tuesday Feb. 16th, 2001

***Complimentary Glass of Wine & Chocolate Covered Strawberries**

T Fusion Steakhouse
3223 Quentin Road, Brooklyn, NY 11234 — Telephone 718.998.0002

Noi Due

Noi Due – Us Two (143 W 69th St New York; NY 10023; Telephone: 212. 712.2222)… aah, the memories it brought back! Having traveled extensively through Italy, having taken in the aromas, this restaurant made me feel I had somehow magically returned to il bel paese. With its authentic decor, softly played romantic Italian songs… SYR and I knew almost from the moment we stepped in that the food would also have that authentic, simple, fresh taste. We were not disappointed!

As soon as we sat down they brought us a basket of home made foccaccia bread, with an oil dip. The bread had that fresh delicate scent that easily succeeded in whetting our appetite for what would come.

SYR stated her meal with a Minestrone, while I had a Zuppa di Pomodoro con Ricotta (Cream of Tomato Soup with a Ball of Ricotta).

Minestrone

The aroma of both soups, the simple country look, the freshness… mmmmMMMmm mmmMMmm! My tomato soup was a slight bit more orangeish than I had expected and that made it a greater feast for the eye. The combination of hot soup and the cold ricotta, brought two different flavors to perfectly complement each other. Somehow the contrast brought out both the soup’s and the cheese’s flavors in full force. The aroma of the fresh basil only enhanced the culinary experience.

SYR‘s Minestrone cooked to perfection, allowed her to taste each individual piece of vegetable. She loved it!

She followed it with a grilled Salmone which sat on a bed of potatoes and asparagus, it was topped with onion rings. Between the presentation and the aromas emanating from it it looked very enticing. She described the potatoes as very buttery, the salmon as delicate and not “fishy” tasting in the least, and the onion rings as just perfect.

Salmon with potatoes and onion rings

I had the Carcioffi Ripieni – Stuffed Artichokes. They came with artichoke bottom stuffed with fresh vegetables served in a lemon caper sauce. The flavor was just tart enough to enhance the vegetables without overpowering them.

We then shared a dish of Cheese Ravioli.

Cheese Ravioli with Gorgonzola and Parmigiano

The ricotta filled ravioli came with Gorgonzola, cream, walnuts, sprinkled parmigiano and spices. Being a cheese lover (wifey used to joke that I must have been an Italian mouse in another gilgul) the combination of the three cheeses was – as my mother used to say in yiddish – ta’am fun ganeiden, the taste of paradise!

The dishes went well with a delightful 2008 Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc.

No meal at an Italian restaurant could be complete without a good cappuccino for me, and an espresso for SYR. Again, the aromas seduced us, and at least in my case this was one the best cappuccinos I ever enjoyed!

By six o’clock, this 40 seat eatery was filled to the gills. Service was prompt, the staff was friendly and enthusiastic, the portions were fair, the prices surprising low. Noi Due‘s motto is “poco ma buono – little but good.” They more than lived to it! We both enjoyed our experience there. We know we’ll be back, we have to!

CS

Dial M for Mouthwatering

M Restaurant (1625 Coney Island Avenue; Brooklyn, NY 11230; Telephone: 718.376.6485), is one of the rare breed of eateries combining moderate prices with mouthwatering dishes.

M Restaurant's middle floor

I started the meal with their Eggplant Tower. Subtle, with a hint of a citrus or – perhaps – a gastrique, tender and delicate – a great opening for what was to be a memorable meal.

Eggplant Tower

I followed it with a true work of gastronomic and visual art combined, I had the Pinwheel. This dish consists of slivers of salmon and tilapia rolled into a wheel shape, topped with greens in a home sauce. There was no “fishy” taste at all, just a delicate flavor that could only be topped by the incredible buttery tasting  potatoes the pinwheel rested on.

Pinwheel

After washing it down with some Perrier, I continued the meal with a new dish, which the restaurant has not yet formally introduced into the menu. I had Lamb  Roolatini. It consists of ground lamb rolled into beef with a sweet and sour sauce. The lamb’s tastiness was brought out to perfection! The delicate balance between the strong lamb’s dominating flavor and the sweet sour sauce gave it a hint of spiciness… ah, a masterpiece! I have no doubt this dish will become one of the restaurant’s most ordered items.

The meal continued with La Surprise steak. Unbelievably juicy and tender, with a slight smoked taste, it comes with a very tasty peppercorn sauce. and a salad. M Restaurant‘s La Surprise most definitely ranks high among New York’s best kosher steaks.

La Surprise

All in all, it was a pleasant evening with great food, nicely sized portions and friendly service.

CS

Art You Have to Eat!

One must wonder if the Chef at u café (1436 Lexington Avenue, Bet E. 93rd E. 94th St, New York, NY 10128 – In Manattan’s Upper East Side – Telephone: 212.427.8223) was a painter of delightful still life canvasses in a former gilgul (incarnation). The attention to shape, the attention to color, the attention to detail, make the particular presentation unforgettable. Udi Ben Ari’s eye for color will remind you of some Caravaggio paintings, his shapes will bring to mind Breugel the Elder.

While the owner and his parents are Israelis, this dairy and fish restaurant features far more than mere Israeli fare. Udi graduated from Johnson and Wales in Rhode Island and that training shows through. Not only is the look of the food guaranteed to make your mouth water, the unique combination of flavors in each dish bespeaks of an all too rare understanding of the subtle nuances of the taste each ingredient brings to the total culinary experience.

On my fist visit to u café I ordered a Fritatta which, as you see below, was full of color and invitingly appetizing…

The next time I went I ordered a Salmon Burger…

Notice how the shape of the pepper, on top of the bread, fits in perfectly with the sauce at the bottom of the photo. Notice how well the cherry tomato’s color goes with the color of the pepper while it directs your attention to the fresh salad? Which 16th century painter’s eye was responsible for this dish’ perfect composition?

Now look at the shapes and unbelievable colors in their Halomi Salad…

I can hear those of you who know me saying, “But CS, you never eat fish!” It’s true I haven’t – even as a child – touched fish.  Having seen another diner at the cafe at a table next to mine order the Salmon Burger, having smelled the non-fish aroma I thought I’d take a bold step and – with trepidation in my heart – I too ordered it. I shouldn’t have worried; it’s taste, it’s texture did not say fish! The perfect proportion of condiments made the burger taste very meat-like.

I finished by having a coffee and a slice of Tricolor Cake. A true feast for the eye of any chocolate lover and his palate.

Once you taste their food you soon understand why they won this year’s Kosherfest’s competition for the best sandwich!

The winning sandwich above is made with tarragon egg salad over smoked salmon with black caviar over brioche. Having eaten the  very same one I photographed I must fully agree with the Kosherfest judges that it is the best sandwich in New  York!

All in all, both my visits there were delightful experiences that proved you can eat art!

CS

EVENT

This Saturday night, November the 14th, there will be a cantorial kumzits at u café, I plan to be there. Come over and say hello!