Avgolemono – Lemon Egg Soup

I first discovered this Greek Avgolemono Soup, in the ’70s, while living in Tel Aviv and it has appeared on our table countless times since:

Avgolemono Soupa

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 6 cups fish stock * (I’ve always used chicken stock, but I’ve adapted this recipe here to comply with the requirements for the 9 Days)
• 1/3 cup orzo
• salt, to taste
• 3 eggs, separated
• juice of 1 large lemon
• white pepper

Directions

1. Bring stock to the boil,  add orzo and salt to taste. Stir until the stock starts boiling again. Cover and simmer for about 18 minutes or until rice or the orzo  is tender.
2. In a bowl beat egg whites until stiff, add yolks and beat until light and creamy. Gradually beat in lemon juice.
3. Ladle about a quarter of the simmering soup into the eggs, whisking constantly.
4. Slowly add the egg mixture to the soup, while stirring vigorously. Remove soup from heat. Continue stirring for 1 minute as you adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
5. Serve immediately.

* Fish Stock

Yields: 6 cups

Ingredients

• 2 1/4 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 2 1/2 carrots, chopped
• 2 celery ribs, chopped
• 2 pounds bones and heads of fish such as sole, flounder, cod, halibut, chopped
• 10 cups water
• 2 1/4 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
• 4 whole black peppercorns
• 2 1/4 teaspoons salt

Directions

1. Heat oil in a 5-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté onion, carrots, and celery, stirring occasionally, until golden, (6 to 8 minutes).
2. Add chopped fish, water, vinegar, peppercorns, and salt and bring to a boil, skimming froth, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes.
3. Pour stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl, discarding solids. If using stock right away, skim off and discard any fat. If not, cool stock completely, uncovered, before skimming fat (it will be easier to remove when cool).

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!

CS

Tonno alla Siciliana – Sicilian Tuna

Growing up as a very fat kid in Uruguay, in an all Italian block (in the midst of the Jewish area – go figure), meant being bullied a lot; until… my mother became the best Italian cook on the block. Suddenly everybody wanted to be invited to have a taste of her home-made pasta (Pasta Fatta in Casa), her Marinara or Margherita sauces, her Pizza Quattro Stagioni or the Piadina or the fat Sfinciuni, or breads like her Pane Siciliano, or Ciabatta, or that incredible Focaccia con Cipolle. Ahhh, quelli giorni!!!

This is one of her dishes, though I will confess… not being into fish – at the time – or anything that may have resembled one, I never touched it:

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 4 tuna steaks, about 5 ounces each
• 2 fennel bulbs, thickly sliced lengthwise
• 2 red onions, sliced
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• crusty rolls, to serve

Marinade

• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 4 garlic clove, finely chopped
• 4 fresh red chili peppers, seeded and finely chopped
• juice and finely grated lemon rind
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
• salt and pepper

Directions

1. Whisk all the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Put the tuna steaks in a large , shallow dish and spoon over a tablespoon of the marinade, turning until well coated. Cover and let marinade in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Set aside the remaining marinade.
2. Heat a stovetop grill pan over high heat. In a separate bowl, put the fennel and onions, add the oil and to toss to coat well. Add to grill pan and cook for 5 minutes on each side until it barely starts acquiring color. Transfer to four warmed serving plates, drizzle with the remaining marinade, keep warm.
3. Add the tuna steaks to the grill and cook, turning once, for 5 minutes until firm to the touch but still moist inside. Transfer to the serving plates and serve immediately with crusty rolls.

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!

CS

Moroccan Fish Tagine

Because of Morocco’s interaction with other nations and cultures over the centuries, its cuisine is extremely refined with marked Berber, Moorish, Arab, Spanish and French influences – especially the first three. Cooks in the Royal kitchens of Morocco’s kitchens have refined the cuisine over the centuries and created the basis for one of the top cuisines in the Mediterranean basin.

Though I’ve not always been a fish lover, I’ve made this dish before and it was absolutely delicious every time:

Serves 4

• 2 tablespoons oil
• 1 large onion finely chopped
• pinch of saffron
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 7 ounces canned chopped tomatoes
• 1 1/4 cups fish stock *
• 4 small red snappers, cleaned, boned with heads and tails removed
• 1/2 cup pitted green olives
• 1 tablespoon chopped preserved lemon
• 3 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
• salt and pepper

Directions

1. Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole. Add the onion and gently cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until softened but not colored. Add the saffron, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, and turmeric and cook for additional 30 seconds, stirring constantly.
2. Add the tomatoes and stock and stir well. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Uncover and simmer for 20 to 35 minutes, or until thickened.
3. Cut each red snapper in half, then add the fish pieces to the casserole, pushing them down into the liquid. Simmer the stew for an additional 5-6 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked.
4. Carefully stir in the olives, preserved lemon and cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

* Fish Stock

Makes about 5 1/2 half cups

Ingredients

• 1 lb 7 ounces white fish heads, bones, and trimmings, rinsed
• 1 onion, sliced
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 1 carrot, sliced
• 1 bay leaf
• 4 fresh parsley sprigs
• 4 black peppercorns
• 1/2 lemon, sliced
• 5 1/2 cups water
• 1/2 cup dry white wine

1. Cut out and discard the gills from the fish heads, then place the heads, bones, and trimmings in a large pan.
2. Add all the remaining ingredients and gradually bring to a boil, skimming all the foam that rises to the surface.
3. Partially cover and simmer for 25 minutes.
4. Strain the stock without pressing down on the contents of the strainer. Let cool, cover, and store in the refrigerator. Use immediately or freeze in portions for up to 3 months.

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!.

CS

Chef Ilan Barniv’s Oven Baked Rainbow Trout

[My good friend Ilan Barniv, from Providence RI, presents an easy way to prepare Rainbow Trout. It’s a MUST WATCH! CS]

Oven Baked Rainbow Trout

Directions

1. Season the fish fillet with salt, pepper, fresh lemon juice, fresh thyme and extra virgin olive oil.
2. I use well oiled stainless steel baking rings to hold the fish together in the oven. Ring measurements: 2-and-3/4 inches diameter x 1-and-1/2 inches height.  The rings are quite expensive, therefore, for home use; an oiled nonstick cupcake baking pan should do the trick.
3. Bake at 350F for about 12 minutes.
4. Serving suggestion: Serve the fish over warm wilted Spinach with salt, pepper, and minced garlic

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy; I certainly did!!!

CS

Geila Hocherman’s Cinco de Mayo Recipes – Part 1

[Our dear friend Geila Hocherman, author of Kosher Revolution, has graciously agreed to share some of her recipes for a feast celebrating another revolution... Editor]

On May 5, 1862, France (considered the best army of the time) fought against a ragtag, poorly supplied, vastly outnumbered, hardly trained, Mexican army and lost the battle at Puebla de Los Angeles. In a pure military sense there are some parallels to our own victory against the mighty Greeks of the Seleucid period.

Since kosher transcends the boundaries of a distinctive national cuisine, why not try some of these great dishes this very Shabbat, Cinco de Mayo?

Ceviche with Avocado and Tortilla Chips

Serves 6

Photo by: Antonis Achilleous, Kosher Revolution on page 37

Here’s a confession: I never serve gefilte fish. That favorite has been replaced on my table by this more exciting dish, which will do wonders for your menu as a starter or light main. Tangy with fresh lime, the ceviche also pairs buttery avocado and crunchy chips, a terrific textural play. And the dish almost makes itself, a big plus when you’ve got other cooking to do.

Ingredients

• 1 ½ lbs fluke, flounder or other non-oily, white-fleshed fish, cut into bite-sized pieces (about 2.5cm square)
• 1 medium tomato, skinned, deseeded and diced
• ½ cup mango ¼ inch dice (optional)
• 4 scallions thinly sliced
• ½ cup chopped cilantro
• 2 cloves garlic chopped fine
• ½ jalapeno finely chopped
• 3 ounces good fruity olive oil
• 3 ounces fresh squeezed lime juice
• ½ teaspoon salt or more to taste
• 2 avocados sliced
• tortilla chips

Directions

1. In a medium non-porous bowl, combine the fish, tomato, spring onions, coriander and mango, if using.
2. In a separate small bowl or large measuring jug, combine the garlic, jalapeño, oil, lime juice and salt, and stir to blend. Pour the mixture over the fish and toss gently. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours.
3. Strain the ceviche.To serve, arrange a few avocado slices on a plate, mound some strained ceviche in the middle and garnish with tortilla chips and serve.

Geila’s Tip

To dismantle an avocado for slicing, first cut it lengthways and gently twist the halves apart. Embed the stone on the blade-heel of a large knife, twist and lift to remove the stone. Peel the avocado, then slice the flesh as required. I’ve found that jalapeños with a brown line or veins on the outside are hotter than those without.

—OooO—

Tomatillo pepita mole with chicken

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 1 cup peeled pumpkin seeds
• ½ teaspoon cumin
• ½ teaspoon savory-optional
• ½ teaspoon coriander seed
• ½ teaspoon oregano- Mexican if you can find it
• 1 ½ tablespoon olive oil
• 4 small tomatillos halved
• ½ large onion rough chop
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1 jalapeno pepper diced- or more if you like heat
• 1 ½ cups chicken broth
• ½ cup cilantro leaves
• ½ cup parsley leaves
• 1 ½ teaspoons salt
• 2 lbs boneless, skinless, thin cut chicken breasts
• tofu sour cream optional

Directions

1. In a large sauté pan toast the cumin, savory, coriander seed, oregano, and the pepitas, (pumpkin seeds), until fragrant.  Remove to bowl of food processor and pulse until finely ground.
2. In the same skillet heat the oil and add the onion, jalapeno, garlic, and tomatillos. Sprinkle with salt and sauté until soft and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes.
3. Add this mixture to the ground spices and pepitas along with the parsley, cilantro, and chicken broth and process until smooth.  Put back in sauté pan and simmer over very low heat for 10 minutes.
4. Place the chicken into a large casserole or roasting pan.  Cover with ¾ of the sauce and bake at 325 for 20 minutes.
5. Serve with extra sauce on the side and tofu sour cream.

Enjoy!

Geila Hocherman

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Tuna and Mango Chutney

This past Tuesday evening, I dined with some friends originally from Argentina. They are both from Buenos Aires (right across the shore from where I grew up in Montevideo, Uruguay on the River Plate). The conversation turned to past and present Latin American politics, yiddish culture and religious life. Not only was the conversation great, so were the food and wine…

We started the meal with a superb fish appetizer covered with a nice spicy and sweet chutney… She graciously emailed me the recipe and a photo this morning:

Photo by: Mrs. Lea Bronshtain

Tuna with Mango Chutney

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1/2 cup rum
• 1/2 cup orange juice
• 1 lb tuna steak
• 1/2 cup crushed corn flakes
• 1 small dried chilli pepper, seeded and chopped
• 1 teaspoon chilli powder
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/2 cup cilantro
• 3 tablespoons olive oil.

Mango Chutney

• 2 cups sugar
• 1 cup distilled white vinegar
• 6 cups mangoes (4 to 5), peeled and cut in 3/4-inch pieces
  
• 1 medium red onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1/2 cup golden raisins
• 1/4 cupginger, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 teaspoon mustard seeds, whole
• 1/4 teaspoon red chili pepper flakes (hot)

(Mrs. Bronshtain makes the chutney once a year and uses it as needed. Bottled in a disinfected jar it can keep on aging for a long, long time.)

• 1/2 yellow pepper, diced
• 1 plum tomato diced
• chopped cilantro for garnish

Directions

1. In a bowl mix soy sauce, rum and orange juice. Marinate tuna in mixture in refrigerator for 3 hours while covered.
2. In a second bowl mix corn flakes, chilli pepper, chilli powder, paprika, garlic powder, black pepper, cayenne pepper and cilantro.
3. Remove tuna from marinade. Pat cereal mixture tightly on fish to coat on all sides.
4. In a pan, sear fish in hot oil for 2 minutes on each side.
5. Mix the chutney with the yellow pepper and plum tomato, top fish with this mixture. Garnish with cilantro.

Directions for Mango Chutney

1. Combine sugar and vinegar in a 6 quart pot; bring to a boil, stirring until sugar dissolves.
2. Add remaining ingredients and simmer, uncovered, until syrupy and slightly thickened, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Stir occasionally during cooking.
3. Pour into clean, hot jars leaving 1/2-inch space to the top; close jars. Process in a water bath for 15 minutes.

Yields 6 (1/2 pint) jars.

We followed this appetizer with a butternut squash soup, braised short ribs, and a Café Brulé. During the meal we had a well decanted Flecha de Los Andes Gran Malbec 2006 from Argentina (of course!). It is a deep colored wine, with black plum, pepper and licorice, floral notes and a barely perceptible chocolate hint; on the palate it’s well balanced, rich with plum, espresso, pepper and licorice, and leaves you with a long finish. A truly memorable meal!

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!

CS

Sesame Seared-Tuna with Mango Jicama Salad

[Ari White, whom we interviewed on our internet radio show this past Wednesday, has graciously allowed us to re-post one of his incredibly delicious recipes. It first appeared on May 22, 2011 on Gourmet Kosher Cooking

Ingredients

• 1 pound Ahi Tuna – sushi grade
• 1/4 cup white sesame seeds
• Canola oil for searing
• 2 large ripe mangoes, peeled, seeded and diced
• 1 medium jicama, peeled and diced
• 1/2 lime juiced
• Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Combine the mango, jicama and lime juice in a bowl; season with salt & pepper to taste.
2. Pat your tuna dry and then cut the loin into 2-inch x 2-inch square segments the length of the loin (or shorter based on your pan size) for appetizer-size portions, or larger for entree portions. Season with salt and pepper and then roll the tuna in white sesame seeds coating as much of the loin as is possible.
   (Chef Andy’s note***Then wrap the tuna loins tightly in plastic wrap and freeze 3 hours – 3 weeks in advance*** When cooking only one loin this may not be entirely necessary, but when producing in mass as we do it regularly; this trick guarantees that every single loin stays perfectly pink and beautiful in the center while allowing for a flawless crust to develop on the outside… it’s idiot proof.)
3. Heat your pan (we love cast iron skillets, but a non-stick will work as well) for a few minutes until scorching hot. Drizzle oil in the pan and sear each side for 30-45 seconds; then set aside. We like the center raw, not rare, raw which requires only the best sushi grade tuna available. (At this point you can either slice and serve your tuna, or wrap it up tightly where it will hold in a fridge for up to 36 hours. When ready to serve, slice the tuna against the grain and present over the mango & jicama salad.
4. Garnish with a smoked garlic aioli (or a spicy mayonnaise) and top with  cilantro.

by Chef Andy Blackman and Ari White, Gemstone Catering

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!

Food and Sukkot

While there are no specific dishes associated with Sukkot, some lend themselves better to the sometimes chilly weather we are experiencing these days. The aromas, the warmth they evoke are just perfect for eating in the Sukkah. So, here is a superb recipe by one of New York’s favorite chefs, Jeff Nathan of Abigael’s on Broadway:

Photo by: Alison Nathan

Jeff Nathan’s
Tarragon Salmon Fillets with Vegetable Ragout

Dairy — Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided (2 tablespoons chilled)
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/8 teaspoon ground fennel seed, optional
• 5 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded, caps sliced
• 4 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed
• 1/2 pint grape tomatoes or halved cherry tomatoes
• 3/4 cup Vegetable Broth
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 4 7 to 8-ounce salmon fillets, skinned
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions:

1. Position a broiler rack about 6 inches from the source of heat and preheat the broiler.
2. To make the ragout, melt the butter with the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and fennel and cook, stirring often, until garlic gives off its aroma, about 1 minute. Add the shiitakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until they give off their juices, about 4 minutes. Stir in the sugar snap peas and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, broth, lemon juice, and tarragon. Bring the broth to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, until the tomatoes are heated through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, partially cover with a lid, and keep warm
3. Meanwhile, brush the salmon on both sides with the oil, sprinkle with the tarragon, and season with salt and pepper. Oil the broiler rack. Broil the fish, skin sides up, for 3 minutes. Turn and continue broiling until the fish is opaque in the center with a tinge of rose color when prodded with the tip of a sharp knife, about 5 minutes more for medium-rare salmon. Place each salmon fillet on a dinner plate.
4. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons chilled butter, cut into bits, to the vegetables. Stir with a wooden spoon, being careful not to break up the vegetables, to melt the butter. Season the ragout with salt and pepper. Spoon the ragout over the salmon and serve immediately.

Enjoy, gentle reader enjoy!

CS

Cioppino

This past Monday eve, SYR and I attended Lévana‘s Dinner and a Show: Light Italian Feast. As usual it was enjoyable, educational and absolutely DELICIOUS! Certainly one of the best cooking classes I’ve ever attended.

We especially liked the Cioppino and Lévana graciously allowed us to post her recipe:

Ingredients

• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 6 cloves garlic
• 4 ribs celery, peeled
• 2 red peppers
• 1 large onion, quartered
• 1 fennel bulb, quartered, centers removed, sliced-thin
• 3 leeks, darkest parts removed
• 1 large can (28 oz.) crushed tomatoes
• 2 cups dry white wine
• 6 cups water
• 6 bay leaves, or 1 teaspoon ground
• 2 good pinches saffron
• 2 tablespoons paprika
• 1 tablespoon anise and fennel seeds
• Good pinch cloves
• Good pinch red pepper flakes
• 2 2-ounce can anchovies, drained and rinsed

• 1 side salmon (about 3 pounds), cut in large cubes
• 1 pound flaked mock crab
• 1 large bunch flat parsley, minced

Directions

Heat the oil in a heavy wide bottom pot. In a food processor coarsely grind the garlic, celery, pepper and onion. Add the ground mixture to the pot, with the leeks, and sautè until translucent. Reduce to medium and cook for 30 minutes. Add the fish and parsley and cook just 5 more minutes. Ladle into soup bowls, and serve with good toasted bread or croutons.

Though it took me more 60 years to even taste fish, I can assure you (as does, SYR) that these was an incredibly tasty soup with a rich array of subtle flavors. Considering the ingredients… I can actually say…. it’s good for you, as well!

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!

CS

Salmon in Lemon Sauce

It’s hard to believe that until about 21 months ago I had never eaten fish, other than a small piece of gefilte on Friday evenings (and even then, none too willingly!). Having learned how to enjoy them, thanks to Orchideä and the defunct Avenue Plaza Dining (both in Boro Park), I now savor the taste and appreciate the nutritional value of that which for decades I’d considered untouchable, inedible, food.

Since, I’ve made this recipe a few times because it tastes great and it’s easy:

Photo from: http://moderndayozzieandharriet.blogspot.com

Ingredients

• 4 tbsp. margarine
• 1 lb. salmon filets
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1/2 tsp tarragon
• 1 clove minced garlic
• 1 tsp. fresh chopped parsley
• 1 pinch oregano
• 3 oz. dry white wine
• 2 oz. fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp. capers
• 1 tbsp. cornstarch
• 1/2 cup cream
• 1/2 cup milk

Directions

1. Melt 2 tbsp butter in a skillet. Lightly salt and pepper the fish. Cook the fish over medium-high heat for about 4 to 5 minutes on each side.
2. Add the tarragon, garlic, parsley, oregano. When garlic browns add capers, white wine and lemon juice. Add salt and pepper to taste.
3. Remove fish from fire to a plate keeping it warm as you make the sauce. Melt the remaining butter in the same skillet. Whisk in the cornstarch; when smooth, add the cream and milk, whisking until smooth, cook until it thickens.
4. Simmer for one minute, return the fish to the pan, and reheat for another minute. Top fish with sauce and serve with rice.

Enjoy, gentle reader, enjoy!

CS