Posts Tagged ‘kosher restaurants

31
Dec
13

Pardes, Revisited


Art manifests itself in many forms. There are great composers whose compositions take the listeners to other realms as they touch their soul. There are great painters whose images evoke memories, longings, visions of delight, or just force one to think. There are great Chefs whose creations, though ephemeral by their very nature, leave us craving for more. And then there is Pardes‘ (497 Atlantic Avenue; Brooklyn, NY 11217 – Tel: 718.797.3880) Owner/Chef Moshe Wendel.

I don’t know if Chef Moshe ever jotted down a musical note, or even held a brush to a canvas, but his culinary skills are indisputable, his technique includes all the key elements of the high art crafts…  Chef Moshe‘s canvas is the serving plate, his colors, food; his creations demonstrate a thorough yet delicate understanding of the subtle nuances of the harmony and counterpoint of flavors…

Last evening SYR, her son YR and I, betook ourselves to Pardes. We started our repast with a selection of “little plates.”

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Kale Salad with crispy rice, watermelon, red herring, watermelon, radish and lime dressing.

Kale Salad with crispy rice, watermelon, red herring, watermelon, radish and lime dressing.

Lentil soup, black olive broth, poached egg, cherry pepper and croutons Pastrami rib, russian dressing, house kraut, pumpernickel crumb

Lentil Soup, black olive broth, poached egg, cherry pepper and croutons
Pastrami Rib, Russian dressing, house kraut, pumpernickel crumb

The Lentil Soup, came together as a carefully orchestrated gentle symphony of unusual flavor combinations culminating in a surprising citrusy grand finale. It left us speechless with delight. The Pastrami Rib brought back sweet memories of a long gone restaurant; nobody ever equaled Shmulke Bernstein‘s pastrami… until now. Yet, it was different, with a few more flavors. we loved it!

We followed, the above, with a Duck Breast, with Brussel sprouts, smoked chestnut, cranberry/cardamon juice and black radish puree. An interesting combination that continued this food concert with incredibly creative and delicious numbers. But, all came to a rousing crescendo as we dug into the Skirt Steak, with kohlrabi salad, pickle gazpacho, and kohlrabi crunch. Skirt steak is usually very salty, but not in this case, it showed an incredibly delicious ensemble of flavors.

We segued with a very juicy, very tender, melt in your mouth, 25oz Grow and Behold Rib Eye, in red wine sauce and superb fries.

Though bursting at the seams by now, we couldn’t resist the Chocolate Mousse, with potato crunch, roasted peanuts, raisin/almond milk puree, celery leaves, olive oil and sea beans. We washed it all down with a glass of Dalton Safsufa Vineyards Chardonnay/Viognier 2011 for SYR, and a Gaffel Kölsch beer for me.

Truly a night to remember! As SYR put it, we’ve done many top restaurants over the years, but none equaled this latest experience.

CS

10
Dec
13

La Brochette Steakhouse and Sushi Bar


Last evening, SYR and I attended La Brochette‘s (340 Lexington Ave; New York, NY 10016; Tel: 212.972.2200Grand Opening Event. It is located on the premises of the late La Carne GrillUnder the direction of its owners Avi and Reuven Cohen, it acquired a more sedate and contemporary look to give it the distinctive atmosphere that would do full justice to its fare.

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The main floor...

The main floor…

Chef Angel Rodriguez cooked up a memorable menu for the occasion. We started out with the Petit Omakase, a selection of sushi rolls…

White tuna with avocado crunch, tuna/salmon roll and more in a sweet and sour sauce...

White tuna with avocado crunch, tuna/salmon roll and more in a sweet and sour sauce…

For a meat appetizer we had the La Brochette Sampler; it soon became very obvious we were about to be treated to a virtuoso performance of food and heavenly aromas…

Spring roll, wagyu beef brochette and Peking duck

Spring roll, wagyu beef brochette and Peking duck

SYR followed with La Brochette Salad, which came with Boston lettuce, baby corn, haricot vert, Kalamata olives and Ranch-Lemon dressing and she liked it!. I, intrigued, opted for the French Onion Soup. This soup is traditionally covered with bread and melted cheese, since we were at a steakhouse, I just had to see what Chef Angel would come up with and I was pleasantly surprised at the riches, the nuances of flavors.

We both segued with the Roasted Prime Rib, which came with a side of of potatoes Lyonnaise and the house beef glaze, SYR ordered hers medium rare, while I opted for a medium well. Both were excellent choices…

....ample portions, deliciously juicy and tender. Who can ask for more?

….big portions, deliciously juicy and tender. Who can ask for more?

We washed it all down with 2 glasses each of Borgo Reale Pinot Grigio 2012, from grapes grown in the the Friuli Venezia Giulia region. It was pale straw in color, medium bodied, with a fruity aroma and a clean refreshing taste. We should have found a more adequate wine pairing for the robustly flavored roasted rib, though the wine went delightfully well with everything up to the entrée.

SYR finished her repast with a Mascarpone Tiramisu..,

it truly mimicked the dairy original!

…it truly mimicked the dairy original!

while I – an unrepentant chocoholic – opted for a Chocolate Lava with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. We left the restaurant enchanted by the atmosphere, and the succulent dinner. 

...the taste of paradise!

…the taste of paradise!

We run into quite a few old friends, most notably Rabbi Shmuley Boteach, Elan Kornblum from Great Kosher Restaurants Magazine, and Meyer Harroch from New York Kosher Guide, among others. The waiter, a gentleman of the old European schhol (though he was only middle aged), was very attentive and made everyone feel very special. As SYR and I discussed the evening, we both agreed that we’ll have to go back again an again.

CS

11
Nov
13

Solo – A Chinese Variation on a Theme


Solo has always been a very classy act. Perhaps it was the red interior, accenting Solo’s newest Chinese themed cuisine, that caused a mind-melding color association with a movie I once saw called The Red Violin. A master violin maker, Nicolo Bussotti, creates a magnificent red colored violin of impeccable sound and quality; the story fans out as the violin passes among its talented owners, spanning many countries and the breadth of four centuries. Solo in many ways resembles the exquisite violin in the story. Throughout its variations from meat to dairy and back to meat in oriental presentation, Solo has – since it opened its doors – provided masterful fair, exemplary high end quality dishes, service, artful presentation, with creative recipe variations yielding delightful results. Valentino, Solo‘s manager – a mother hen, in a good way – is there from early morning until midnight, day in and day out, making sure that Solo‘s standards remain at the top of its class.

At the request of its many loyal habitués, Solo has kept some of its most popular items like cowboy steak, and beef sliders. It’s a good thing too; CS and I started off our meal with Solo‘s Yellowfin Tuna Tartar, topped with avocado mash served with kimchi and mango salsa – some variations since last we sampled it, but still perfection. Their Salmon Carpaccio…

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was the ultimate example of high quality fare Solo is so famous for. You must must try the Porcini Mushroom Soup. It was just fabulous; you could wean babies on this creamy caramel colored delight. I don’t know how, but I just gotta that recipe. I could have eaten three bowls full. Maybe we’ll kidnap Eka, our trusty waiter, whom we’ve just adored for years, and torment him with heavy Jewish recipes ’til he gives up some kitchen secrets. The Hot and Sour Soup

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was almost as good to our palate as the mushroom soup that preceded it, though the first one remains an undisputed favorite.

We sampled two more fabulous fish dishes, check that, we devoured them! The Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass…

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with bok choy was outstanding, subtly sweet with just the right kick of pungent; the Salmon Teriyaki, cut triangles from the choicest part of top quality organic salmon, had the finest veil of spiced rice powdered crispness – again, superbly flavored! I have never enjoyed fish more.

Hagafen‘s Sauvignon Blanc 2011 accompanied our fish dishes – it showed very little personality except for its nice fruity bouquet. We switched to Hagafen‘s Pinot Noir 2011, a bit more flavorful for the meat courses that followed. Interesting Crispy Chinese Beef Balls – lemon flavored meatballs – they were uniquely lemony, moist and delicious.

Pan Seared Beef Dumplings…

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followed and they were light and delicious. Our final entree was the Mongolian Style Beef Filet, brought sizzling to the table, very Chinese, spicy savory, quite good. I don’t know if Chinese is the last cuisine variation that Solo will ever introduce, perhaps they will offer a fusion of just superbly crafted dishes. What I do know is that however they may vary their menu, Solo remains one of the finest orchestrations of fine dining in New York City.

SYR

22
Aug
13

The New… Prime Grill – Elegance par Excellence


I knew I was in for serious trouble when walking back to our cozy, ellipsoidal, tufted leather booth with a bite size bread squarely in my mouth – from the washing station – I ached to skirt a bee-line for seconds of the freshly brick oven baked flatbread pieces. Good thing I didn’t, because Chef David Kolotkin prepared CS, myself and my son, a feast of heavenly scope and perfection… it will take days to walk off and countless years to forget. kosher-scene-copyright-copy22

A Partial view of the main floor.

A partial view of the main floor at opening time for dinner – 5:00pm

The place is the new Prime Grill (25 W 56th St, New York, NY 10019 – 212.692.9292) surrounded with neighbors on par like: Henri BendelGucciAbercrombie & Fitch, and the Consulate General of Argentina. The venue is elegant, Great Gatsby meets luxury cruise liner enormous, yet sedate and optimally planned to seat all dining scenarios in shades of warm beige to deep teal. Beyond the reception and a welcoming long marble appointed rectangular bar, accented by the most ‘fabulous darling’ huge black crystal chandeliers that made my Hungarian heart sing. There is seating for up to 350 persons; with intimate balcony seating for two or for large private parties. The layout is so well done, it flows unobtrusively at near full capacity with the soft low hum of a well tuned engine. Our meal was nothing short of spectacular! New distinct flavors from the charcuterie board that tasted totally traif; I’ll be adding ‘al chets‘ for the Pepperoni and the Spicy Beef Prosciutto Cotto this Yom Kippur, that served along with thinly sliced Salami, cured Bresaola, and Spicy Smoked Beef Coppa became nothing short of ‘blonde svelt shiksa, you can’t possibly be Jewish’ when condimented with Prime Grill‘s Whole Grain French Mustard & the toasted flatbread. I’ve skipped ahead, sorry, premature palate excitation…

Hard to believe, it's actually all deliciously kosher!

Hard to believe, it’s actually all deliciously kosher!

Chef David said: “G-d will forgive me for introducing my people to the real tastes of the world.” We started our meal with three sushi appetizers, all superbly fresh, tasty, well sauced & beautifully served: Prime Grill Roll – with grilled yuzu-miso glazed black cod, cucumber, sesame-teriyaki sauce, topped with tuna & avocado; Fire Dragon Roll, consisting of spicy tuna wrapped in avocado; and a Spicy Tuna on crispy rice served with jalapeno aioli sauce, teriyaki & julienne tri-colored peppers – my personal sushi favorite, it’s that coalesced well blended harmony so reminiscent of Prime Ko‘s similarly named dish. Then it was all mouths on zest deck for a Merlin the Magician’s feast set for kings, queens, knights, and… can this round table get any larger? The Crackling Duck Salad leads the appetizer queue because it too had that artfully fused flavor that is so signature Chef David; duck confit and cracklings, arugula, frisee, tomato, red onion, poached egg and champagne vinaigrette. That champagne vinaigrette tied the flavors together in such a wonderful way – the duck confit was sublime, I do hope the dressing is included in Chef David‘s new cookbook – set to appear on September 15th and available at amazon.com. If not, we’ll try to squeeze Chef David for the recipe. It was a delightful marriage of flavors. Next came the Crispy Veal Sweetbreads – a light tempura based coating served with fennel puree, fennel fronds, enoki mushrooms, cipollini onions & pomegranate port sauce – a tad saliferous as is the tendency with sweetbreads, but lovely and light. The Classic Beef Tartar served over beef carpaccio with citrus-caper vinaigrette, sun dried tomatoes & pistachio baked crostini –was excellent. My intent was to sample lightly; who makes a meal of beef tartar? I couldn’t stop forking it – the fresh robust meat flavor vibrated with the citrusy capers and the pistachio crostini; oh my, I shamelessly kept eating. My son, a basic meat and potatoes kind of guy, recently has been expanding his palate; he couldn’t have been in better culinary hands as he explored Chef David’s taste odyssey taking him around the au couture comestible world in 80 minutes. Literally every single dish & accoutrement of the many consumed, possessed unique noble flavors artfully combined in what I’ll acronym as QTTP (Quality, Taste, Texture and august Presentation). CS tried a new Wood Grilled Veal Chop served with cipolline onions, peppers, vine ripened tomatoes, haricot vert, grilled radish, arugula with that marvelous whole grain mustard vinaigrette. The sliced Prime Grill Filet on garlic toast w/ crispy onions & horseradish sauce drew big yummms from my budding gourmand. Prime Grill‘s beef whether aged, cured, marinaded, reserve or Wagyu are all unrivaled and delectably supreme. Every sauce is well thought out – marrying components so brilliantly executed.

Prime Reserve Cut steak

Prime Reserve Cut steak

We all three salivated over the Prime Reserve Cut – I was at my happy zenith savoring my slices [cut with their fabulous steak knives], when CS insisted I taint perfection with some Béarnaise Sauce. Again, a shiksa moment of exotic buttery steakiness that was exquisite. We munched on brick oven Bresaola Flatbread seasoned with light bean puree and drizzled with truffle oil, as we reveled in entrees of Long Island Breast of Duck served with the most adorable quarter sized medallions ‘you can’t believe it’s made of quinoa’ pancakes – topped with a cranberry relish that was a lingua zoetic burst of flavor.

Long Island Breast of Duck...

Long Island Breast of Duck…

CS savored a Veal Chop with peach fritters, porcine mushrooms, infused whipped potatoes & apple brandy sauce; ahhh, King Arthur was reborn – smiling with Guineverian pleasure. Who did have room for dessert? None of us did, but gluttony prevailed after a short interludatory walk. The place was packed with that eclectic mix of clientele that gathers together over the shared commonality of a superlative dining experience. Three spanking new Escalades lined the near exterior with a bevy of well dressed chauffeurs in luxury cars in tow. I was totally out of time and place, enjoying every extravagant moment of gashmiut physicality, knowing I’d have to pay the price for my body stoops to conquer mind jaunt.

A potpourri of luscious, scrumptious, desserts

A potpourri of luscious, scrumptious, desserts

But Chef Felenciana‘s desserts were about to be served. I have adored this woman through her cakes and desserts ever since I first met her in person at Sòlo many years back, over a Tiramisu, what an extraordinary talent. I have kept up correspondence with her through the years via her pastries. The latest having been her Hazelnut Roche, of which I’ve had several deliveries through CS from the Prime Baker Butcher shop on 2nd ave. This night too, she did not disappoint. How amazing was the Bourbon and real Vanilla Bean non-dairy ice creams that tasted totally milk real, beside Whipped Cream drizzled with rich chocolate sauce, Chocolate Bread Pudding, Molten Chocolate Cake, and the exquisitely ethereal Tiramisu… nobody does it better! Felenciana – you are the Queen of Sweets. How can I go home again and cook for my family? Saving grace is Chef David himself, if you haven’t met him, he is an unpretentious, soft- spoken tender bubbale, who has every right to be proud of his monumental achievements on a personal and professional level. The Prime Grill Cookbook – Redefining the Kosher Experience, the Chef’s first published effort, co-authored with Joey Allaham - fourth generation butcher extraordinaire and CEO of The Prime Hospitality Group – will be on a shelf near you in September, or at amazon.com. Chef David has kindly chosen around 250 carefully explained recipes that will require some skill and time but not keep you in the kitchen for weeks trying to recreate the Prime Grill experience. I want to personally thank Chef David, our waiter Tony and all the superb servers, as well as the entire Prime Grill family for a delightful evening. A happy and healthy new year to you all! SYR

23
Jul
13

Sòlo – Revisited


We’ve reviewed Sòlo in its prior incarnation (here, and here), so why are we reviewing it again? Sòlo (550 Madison Avenue; New York, NY 10022; Telephone: 212.833.7800 – in the atrium of the SONY building), has reinvented itself as a dairy restaurant. We liked it as a meat eatery, now it changed… We had more than enough confidence in Prime Hospitality Group‘s Corporate Chef David Kolotkin so we decided to give it a try and see what a former meat restaurant turned dairy could do…

SYR had an out of town guest, whose home cooking is the stuff legends are made of (I should know, I’ve stayed in their guest house many a time over the years!), and she came with me. We chose a busy time, on a busy night, with last minute reservations to best test the service. As soon as we were assigned a table, we found ourselves in the able hands of Eka Halim, waiter extraordinaire!

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Fritto Misto all' Italiana

Fritto Misto all’ Italiana

We started our repast with Fritto Misto all’ Italiana, an assorted plate of rice balls, potato croquettes, eggplant and zucchini served with a trio of unique dipping sauces. The tastes were subtle yet definite, the sauces, rather than overpowering, introduced nice variations; we both loved it!

We segued with Big Eye Tuna Tartare – a raw big eye tuna, local farmed apples, roasted pine nuts, marinated in a red wine vinaigrette, served chilled – and Branzino Carpaccio…

Branzino Carpaccio

Branzino Carpaccio

…it consisted of raw, thinly sliced white fish, citrus  salt and capers, drizzled with an artisanal imported Italian olive oil and squeezed lemon.

Both were scrumptious; it was obvious the combination of ingredients was done with as much attention, as much focus on the final result, as the old master painters of the Renaissance put into the mixing of their colors!

Next we tried Eggplant Parmeggiana, slow baked alternating layers of eggplant with tomato sauce, parmesan and daily homemade mozzarella. Every ingredient shone on its own as well as a member of a well choreographed ballet on my palate. Wooow!

Before trying the pastas we had a Warm Goat Cheese Salad, with hazelnut crusted goat cheese croquette, arugula, roasted beet medley, caramelized local market pears, haricots verts drizzled with a red wine vinaigrette. Superbly balanced flavors. We segued into Rigatoni alla Carbonara Vegetariana

Rigatoni alla Carbonara Vegetariana

Rigatoni alla Carbonara Vegetariana

The rigatoni pasta came with with zucchini, garden basil, imported pecorino romano cheese, eggs, cracked black pepper and cream. Richly flavorful!

We followed with Homemade Truffle & Butternut Squash Ravioli, with truffle Parmesan sauce and sliced black truffle…

Homemade Truffle and Butternut Squash Ravioli

Homemade Truffle and Butternut Squash Ravioli

…the Parmesan sauce gave it all a superb taste without overpowering anything else!

Risotto al Pesto was Chef David’s next choice for us…

Risotto al Pesto

Risotto al Pesto

This delicate, aromatic risotto came with fresh basil, Parmesan cheese, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts and haricot verts. Excellent, is an understatement!

Fettucini alla Puttanesca came next….

Fettuccine alla Puttanesca

Fettuccine alla Puttanesca

Fresh homemade fettuccine with imported olives, capers, garlic and grape tomatoes, t’was a true masterpiece in taste and in looks.

Penne alla Vodka was our next dish…

Penne alla Vodka

Penne alla Vodka

It came with tomato sauce, onions, cherry tomatoes  and romano cheese. Probably the best Penne alla Vodka I ever had.

Fish came next, considering that a mere three and a half years ago I could still honestly say I never tasted fish, I learned to appreciate the creatures rather fast. In rapid succession we devoured Wild Smoked Salmon and Mozzarella, Tuna Filet Pepper Verde and a Chilean Sea Bass Scallopini.

The wild salmon came in an avocado puree, with homemade mozzarella in a balsamic reduction; there is hardly anything as delicious as fresh salmon. The tuna filet was served with green pepper crusted big eye tuna steak, Dijon mustard, cream and a vodka reduction. The sea bass dish consisted of thinly sliced Chilean sea bass sauteed with lemon, white wine, capers, sundried tomatoes, parsley, basil and shallots. All three were a testament to the Chef’s artistry.

We washed this massive feast down with a Herzog Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, as suggested by – our waiter – Eka. Though it is a native California wine, its style is very French; it exhibits currant, berry, and cherry combined with a delightful earthy minerality. Its tannins are soft, smooth and well balanced, culminating in a long elegant finish.

We capped the meal with a Tiramisu, again it was obvious that while we had expected a delicious meal, we got a very memorable royal feast!

There is no question I’ll be coming back again and again!

CS

23
Dec
12

Nobo Wine & Grill


Teaneck’s Nobo Wine & Grill (1400 Palisade Avenue; Teaneck, NJ 07666, Telephone: 201.837.1000), never ceases to amaze and delight. Under the direction of Executive Chef Josh Massin (formerly of Manhattan’s Mike’s Bistro), this restaurant which we reviewed before – with a different chef and a different name, though still under the same owners – redefines the meaning of “succulent.” This past Tuesday, the incomparable Lévana, treated SYR and I to this eatery.

We started our culinary adventure by sharing three appetizers: Big Eye Tuna Nicoise

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Big Eye Tuna Nicoise - Olive oil poach tuna, with assorted olives, capers, hard-boiled egg, frisee, cinfit campari tomatoes, raw honey emulsion, fried bread & red wine vinegar syrup.

Big Eye Tuna Nicoise – Olive oil poach tuna, with assorted olives, capers, hard-boiled egg, frisee, cinfit campari tomatoes, raw honey emulsion, fried bread & red wine vinegar syrup.

Traditional Cassoulet

Traditional Cassoulet - Bean stew with duck confit, veal sausage, veal bacon & roasted bone marrow on the side.

Traditional Cassoulet – Bean stew with duck confit, veal sausage, veal bacon & roasted bone marrow on the side.

…and Wild Mushroom Risotto. The tuna in syrup, tasted heavenly with a subtle citrusy flavor and sides that perfectly complemented it; the cassoulet was quite reminiscent of a fine cholent, in fact Chef Josh told us that cholent (or chaud lent) was most likely based on this French delicacy. The marrow bone was – for me – a superb touch, after all as a kid I used to fight my dad for these bones. After all these years, after all the changes in palette, nothing compares to a great marrow bone. Hmm, hmm!  The risotto came with parsley puree, salamesian and white truffle oil, strongly flavored and delicious!

We then proceeded to share three mains: Boneless Braised BBQ Short Ribs

Boneless Braised BBQ short Ribs - with roasted garlic & rutabaga mash, smoky cannellini beans, leek sauce, maple syrup infused barbeque sauce.

Boneless Braised BBQ short Ribs – with roasted garlic & rutabaga mash, smoky cannellini beans, leek sauce, maple syrup infused barbeque sauce.

The short ribs, and sides, brought in a beautiful tapestry of perfectly balanced flavors and tender, juicy meat!

We then proceeded with a Crispy Skin Poached Dark Skin Meat Chicken, it consisted of smoky white wine, braised savoy cabbage, local Rusian fingerling potatoes, chicken sausage dumplings, braised leeks, red pepper aioli and garlic crouton. Incredibly flavorful with an orangey taste, and very juicy. We loved it!

But the pièce de résistance was the Butcher’s Cut Steak, not on the regular menu and not always available, it was recommended by the Chef. Cooked sous vide* it came with sauteed haricot vert and Yukon Gold potatoes. It came medium rare, it was superbly tasty, soft like butter and very juicy.

We washed it all down with Segal Merlot 2011, it was adequate without being overpowering

For dessert, in a tremendous display of self restraint, we shared a single Peanut Butter Chocolate torte, with a Lace Cookie and a Cinnamon Ice Cream. Ahhh, a perfect cap to a perfect meal!

A perfect ending!

Just the right ending!

With a very attentive, unassuming Chef, great food, superb company and just the right ambiance… who can ask for more?

CS

*Sous Vide – From the French “under vacuum.” The ingredients are slowly cooked (for as long as 72 hours) in a water bath – while sealed in airtight plastic – as a result the natural juices and flavors stayed undiluted with whatever ingredient is so cooked. The reason for this method of cooking is to cook the item evenly, without overcooking the outside as the inside gets the same amount of donenness, with all around juicier results. Meat, using this method is cooked between 131F. to 140F. Vegetables need a higher temperature.




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