Archive for the 'kosher wine' Category



22
Jan
10

Wine Tasting


Last Friday there was a wine tasting (like every Friday from 12:00 to 3:00) in the tasting room at back of Liquors Galore (1212 Avenue J; Brooklyn, NY 11230-3702; Telephone: 718.338.4166)

Jordan Weisz, the Kosher Brand Manager at Monsieur Touton Selection, LTD, presented five superb selections which definitely proved a kosher wine need not be expensive to be good.

I started with a 2008 Chateau Joumard Bordeaux. It had great bouquet and hints of red berry on the palate. Having been aged in French oak casks it add some vanilla shades to its flavor. It goes perfectly with pasta, grilled meat, lamb and pizza. Its delicate taste perfectly compliments the stronger flavored food.

I then tasted a 2006 Jerusalem Hills Mount Hevron Red, a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Syrah. These grapes mature gently in the warm days and cool nights of the Jerusalem Hills. It’s got a smoky flavor with raspberry accents and a hint of black pepper.

I followed with the 2006 Gedeon Cabernet Sauvignon, a very nice smoky wine. I then proceeded to 2008 Grand Sud Merlot. Delightfully fruity, dry with currant accents.

The last selection I tasted was a 2007 Cantina Grabrielle Chianti. Chiantis are usually very dry, this one however was unusually gentle soft in tannins and acidity. Liked it, I’ve found a new friend.

Cantina Gabrielle, never cease to amaze me. Very moderately priced wines, with delightful flavors. One that I like a lot of, is their Dolcemente. It reminds of an old fashioned wine that combines Cabernet Sauvignon grapes with the fruitiness of the Cesanese grapes. It has fresh floral aromas and notes of berry and cherry, very smooth tannins, and a lovely sweetness on the palate. Absolutely delightful!

[Starting next week, Aaron Zimmerman, the owner of Liquors Galore will post a multi-part weekly series on how to chose and how to taste wine.]

CS

12
Jan
10

Demystifying Wine


The Book of Genesis mentions Noah as the first to make wine. Throughout the ages, wine has become an intrinsic part of religious ceremonies, ritual meals, family celebrations, special occasions, romantic tête-à-tête, etc., all the while gladdening the heart and warming the soul.

During my childhood and teenage years growing up in Uruguay, I hardly ever  remember sitting down to our daily family lunch without a bottle of wine at the table. Around since mankind’s earliest days, it is one of the oldest potables still enjoyed in ever greater demand in the 21st century, but how many of us know what a good wine really is?

All the sniffing, swirling and spitting that the professional winetasters engage in isn’t done merely to show off, in fact these actions greatly enhance the appreciation of the wine. While precious few of us will ever become professionals at the taster’s art, most of us can increase our enjoyment of wine by learning a few simple facts.

Fill about one third of your wine glass, hold it up to the light. Is it clear or cloudy? Is there any sediment or other solid matter? If it is a red wine tilt the glass away from you against a white or light surface and look at the color of the liquid at the far end. Older wines start to fade at the rim, a deep red becomes brownish or a dull yellowish brown.

Next, swirl the glass (that’s the reason for merely filling it only one third of the way), make sure you get a vigorous wave circulating in the liquid; this will activate the aromatic compounds in the wine. Bend your head slightly forward, tilt the glass at a 45° angle, insert your nose a little into the cup and inhale for about 3 – 4 seconds. The scents a wine offers can change during the course of one sniff, you may need two or at most three sniffs to fully appreciate its aroma as it is quickly neutralized. Partake its bouquet…

Yes, you could roll the wine in your mouth just like the experts because they try to expose it to all the different taste sensitive parts of the tongue. At the tongue’s tip are the sweetness receptors, just a little back you’ll taste the saltiness. The sides of the tongue will tell you about the acidity or sourness while the back of the tongue will tell you of any bitterness. Yes, you could do that or you could just relax and sip…

In the following video John Cleese explains the mysteries of wine to the rest of us, non experts, who just want to enjoy it.

Barely a few years ago, kosher wines were of the extra sweet Concord, or extra sweet Malaga variety, almost exclusively, with an occasional sweet Tokay added to the mix; those days are now behind. Kosher wines come in a variety of grapes and mixes of grapes, they range from sweet to semi sweet, from semi dry to dry. There are many world class vintages that just happen to be kosher. They come in all prices and there is always something to suit your taste. Enjoy!

CS

05
Jan
10

The Pasta Factory


One of the greatest joys of preparing entries for The Kosher Scene blog has been meeting the talented seasoned restaurateurs and chefs along the way.  Sol Kirschenbaum, owner of The Pasta Factory (1400 Palisade Avenue; Teaneck, NJ 07666, Telephone: 201.837.1000) and former partner of Levana’s has just an amazingly vast knowledge of the kosher restaurant business. Sol’s also an incredible wine connoisseur; he loves his reds especially those from the lesser known Israeli wineries; his many years in the fine kosher dining business and vast experience with what makes for fine food, were just the recipe for a great evening of food talk and tasting.

It was one of those freezing, weather is frightful, 20°, teeth chattering, winter nights. Chef Chase Sanders prepared a lovely Roasted Truffle Butternut Squash with Basil soup. This creamy soup had just the right blend of sweetness and the basil overtones were delicious; and it was hot.

Appetizers followed. We split the Grilled Chicken Quesadilla, tender bites of grilled breast with tricolor salad and balsamic dressing. The combined flavors and crispness of the quesadilla were flavorful and authentic. The second appetizer was a Lamb Merguez Pizza with arugula, olives, capers and shallots drizzled with Tahina.  This dish demonstrates Chef Sanders adaptive and creative talents in executing an authentic Mediterranean dish modified to meet the strict standards of the kosher cuisine. It looked great, the tahina resembled drizzled cheese, and the combination of flavors really worked!

Grilled Chicken Quesadilla

Lamb Merguez Pizza

At some point, someone brought us two great glasses of wine. I had a Dalton Safsufa Cabernet Sauvignon, very solid and flavorful, while CS had a Herzog Selection Merlot, also quite good. At this point my feet were thawed and I was ready for the main course.

The waiter brought out a Crispy Breast of Chicken with asparagus risotto, seasoned with preserved lemon. I’m still a little floored as to how he made simple chicken taste so good, (must be that special ingredient he adds to his dishes; (see our little piece on Chef Sanders that will follow next week, if you want to find out), but it was simple and savory. The risotto was cooked to perfection and I loved the asparagus accent; gave it great flavor. CS had a fabulous Skirt Steak marinated in molasses and shallots. He reluctantly gave me piece to taste, (South Americans are so possessive with their beef), and the blend of flavors was terrific. Presentation on all our dishes was simple and elegant

Skirt Steak

I’m really dating myself here, but does anyone out there remember “Felix the cat, the wonderful, wonderful cat. Whenever he gets in a fix he reaches into his bag of tricks.”  Well… let me tell you about Pasta Factory’s dessert chef, Felix. Forget tricks, this man is a magician. His desserts taste sinfully milchigdairy…oh…the creams….the chocolate…. the mousse…the taste….oh my! We were served a flourless Triple Chocolate Cake and a dish of Butterscotch Cream. I was gonna have to pay for this with an additional forty laps in the pool next day, but it was all well worth the calories. Pastry Chef Felix’ 14 years of experience at the 4 Seasons really showed in his presentation and mouth-watering desserts.

Tricolor Chocolate Cake

The Pasta Factory has a warm brick interior, a lovely quiet ambiance suitable for family and one on one dining. They are also the only kosher restaurant in Bergen County with a liquor license. They boast a diverse, exciting menu of delicious food, and beautifully served ample portions. Enjoy. We certainly did.

SYR

Pasta Factory on Urbanspoon

18
Dec
09

Somewhere in Marrakech


Just missing the story tellers, local souk and snake charmers, I walked into mystical Morocco when I entered Darna (600 Columbus Ave – North East corner of 89th; New York 10024; Telephone: 212.721.9193), right here in New York City, in Manhattan’s Upper West Side.

Magically transported to the heart of Fez, Rabat, Marrakech or perhaps Casablanca and Rick’s Café Américain… I expected to hear the echo of Ilsa’s voice asking Sam: “Play it, Sam. Play ‘As Time Goes By.'”

I arrived at Darna as they began dinner service. Carlos tastefully arranged a corner table for me while Katja navigated me through the extensive menu of surprisingly well priced fare.

I started with a Humus plate, which came with a zaatar (hyssop) pita and mixed greens.

Deliciously flavorful, it was followed by Moroccan Cigars with accompanying greens and tomato flower garnish atop a Tehina Sauce.

The meat filled cigars were crispy on the outside, tender and savory on the inside; a perfect blend of flavors.

Darna’s Stuffed Chicken was the main course, a whole roasted Cornish hen stuffed with prunes, apricots, raisins, mushrooms and almonds with a side of  Couscous (their signature dish!) topped with string beans and carrots.

The stuffed hen was tender and superb in taste; the side dish delicious! The meal was accompanied by a delightful 2007 Barkan Pinot Noir.

Darna means “our home” in Moroccan Arabic. The time went by too quickly; the homey food, the polite and friendly staff, the cozy beautifully appointed authentic Moroccan décor, the soft Moroccan music certainly made me feel like a valued guest at the home of some trusted old friends…truly a hidden precious jewel in Manhattan!

To borrow a line from the movie Casablanca, “Luis, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.” I’ll be back!

CS

16
Dec
09

Chef’s Guest


This past Thursday, December 10th, I had the pleasure of being the exclusive guest of Chef David Kolotkin at Prime Grill. As I’ve mentioned in past postings,  this eatery is one of my favorite meat restaurants.

A partial view of Prime Grill

Chef David’s special menu did not disappoint. I started the meal with a House Cured Duck “Prosciutto” served with light frisee, dried fruit, almonds and a citrus soy reduction.

House Cured Duck "Prosciutto"

I found it delightful, subtly tart, with the individual flavors coming to the fore with each bite.

The House Potato Gnocchi with Duck Sauce followed next, served with tomato in a delicate herb sauce. It looked blissfully tasty and tasted even better. It left a very pleasant, unusual, aftertaste.

House Potato Gnocchi

The third course was  Southern Style Veal Sweetbreads & Grilled Tongue; which came with home-style grits, collard greens and a piquant horseradish coulis.

Southern Style Veal Sweetbreads & Grilled Tongue

The synchronicity of flavors was superb, but merely part of the buildup to the crescendo of the main dish, a 60 Day Dry Aged Reserve Steak. It was served with truffle scallion and whipped potato. Personally, I prefer my steak medium well done, but Chef David insisted I order it medium. He was right. It was tender, juicy and just perfect – in every sense of the word!

I sipped a very nice 2008 Teal Lake Shiraz throughout the four courses. When I first came the Chef asked me what I would like, I told him to surprise me. And he did, deliciously, scrumptuously so. The meal was fit for a very fortunate king or… this most fortuitous food critic.

CS

04
Dec
09

Solamente Solo


Solo, situated in the atrium of the SONY building (550 Madison Avenue; New York, NY 10022; Telephone: 212.833.7800), is the brainchild of Joey Allaham creator and owner of the acclaimed Prime Grill. It is a high-end upscale restaurant featuring a fusion of exotic Mediterranean & Asian cuisine.

The dining room at Solo is the epitome of modern chic with its cool modular abalone-like mosaic panels & sand carved glass partitions, Mediterranean stuccoed walls, corkwood flooring, and bespeckled leather seating. It’s the perfect place for corporate pow wows, or when you want to impress.  I just loved the beautifully lit wall of gold olive oil bottles. Solo’s got an exclusive Club/VIP Room, and 3 private dining rooms available with plasma TV screens and controlled sound and lighting features with a seating capacity of up to 20. The VIP room connects to the kitchen allowing private dining with Chef Dan who incorporates Asian, French, and exotic Spanish influences in his exciting cooking style.

Now… to the food! It’s basics with a clean fresh twist. Presentation is elegant, artistic, bare yet precise, very Feng Shui balanced.

CS, the guy who says he doesn’t like fish, started with a Salmon appetizer while I ordered the Panko Crusted Veal Sweetbreads, with field greens, tomato, onion and citrus. Both were great choices. He followed it with a Solo USDA Prime Cowboy Steak which came with polenta fries, Chimichurri and green peppercorn sauce. I had the Beer & Plum Braised Beef Short Ribs (a feast for the palate AND the eyes) with turnip puree, sun dried tomato and pepper gastrique and crispy shallots. Both main selections were outstanding!

For dessert I took the very luscious looking, very aromatic, absolutely delicious Baked Pear with Strawberries in Raspberry Sauce while CS went for the the Caramelized Banana Tart which came with vanilla ice cream.

Our wine selection, a 2005 Benyamina The Cave was superlative and a more than fair complement to this superb meal. Eka, our waiter, was very friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic. He did not stir us wrong! We loved everything, Both Chef Dan and the Pastry Chef outdid themselves, BUT we wish the portions were somewhat more generous.

SYR

Solo on Urbanspoon

02
Dec
09

Dining in Style


New York’s top kosher steakhouse is, without a doubt, Prime Grill (60 East 49th Street; New York, NY 10017; Telephone: 212.692.9292). But, do not take my word for it! Many well known actors, politicians, top business leaders, even those who need not worry about eating kosher, find their way to this eatery. In fact, as Executive Chef David Koloktin puts it, some of New York’s biggest business deals were hammered out during many a lunch at Prime Grill‘s tables.

Smoked Black Cod

On this occasion SYR had the Smoked Black Cod, for an appetizer. It was served with poached egg, toasted curry couscous cake, shiitake mushroom chips and champagne vinaigrette. I ordered their Classic Beef Tartar served over beef-carpaccio with citrus-caper vinaigrette, sun dried tomatoes & pistachio baked crustini. Superb selections, both!

Classic Beef Tartar

For the main dish I had a Delmonico with Peppercorn Sauce, Tobacco Onion Rings, mixed greens and a marrow bone. SYR had her favorite, the 14oz Ladies Cut with Yukon Gold Potatoes and we both shared the Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes. Again, the artistry (both in the presentation and the perfect, just right, flavors) of the kitchen staff under Chef David’s direction was astounding! But… I still plan to come back on a Thursday evening for the special on my personal favorite the Black Angus Beef.

Delmonico Steak

We washed it all down with a delightful 2006 Baron Herzog Cabernet Sauvignon. For dessert SYR ordered a Caramelized Banana Tart with Vanilla Cream and Bacardi Coconut Sorbet while I had the Warm Chocolate Cake consisting of Molten Chocolate Cake and Vanilla Ice Cream. She had a coffee, while I sipped a slightly warmed up glass of Luis Royer Cognac XO (European Style!).

All in all a perfect dinner, but… you expect that at Prime Grill.

CS

Prime Grill on Urbanspoon

01
Dec
09

An Afternoon in School


During my school years, I often found myself mentally wandering as I wondered when class would end so I could get on with my more bona-fide major; the pedantic studies of life. Today, an eager student in a class of 40 plus,  like most, I sat there salivating for more, wishing  class would never end! This was the third and last demonstration in the series The Fine Art of Kosher Cooking at De Gustibus School of Good Taste, located on the 8th floor of  the world famous NYC Macy’s, on Broadway and 34th.

Chef David Kolotkin

David Kolotkin, Executive Chef for Prime Grill and Corporate Chef for both Solo and Prime Grill, taught the class today. His warmth, energy and passion for his art dazzled us all.. Chef Kolotkin’s personable charismatic banter and marvelous talents, captivated our interests, as he explained the intricacies of the various dishes he prepared.

We sampled four enchanting culinary creations (brought, cooked and supervised by a mashgiach, directly from Prime Grill). One could clearly hear “oooooh,” “woww,” “heavenly.” and other such cries of delight  throughout the demonstration. The dishes consisted of: Smoked Salmon Mousse Filled “Latkas” (I’m not a fish eater, but I found the taste unbelievably delicious!), Chicken Liver Eclaire, Mustard Crusted Rack of Lamb with Celery Puree, Caramelized Onion and Fried Rosemary, for dessert the Chef prepared Baked Apple and Ginger Brown Betty. In short, a feast of ambrosia for the gods! Libation offerings were: Weinstock White by W and  Baron Herzog Syrah. Hardly anything on the menu sounded conventional, nor was it commonplace in taste. As Chef David told one of the attendees, “I’m not a conventional guy!” Conventional or not, it all worked superbly well, a true testimony to Chef Kolotkin’s’s imagination and understanding the subtle nuances of flavor of the various ingredients. Truly exotic and daring, but with such a refined tasting palette, the mix of flavors was sheer artistry.

I’ll share one recipe here; for the other three you’ll have to wait for our – almost ready to go live website - thesupremegourmet.com.

BAKED APPLE AND GINGER BROWN BETTY

Special Equipment
4 5ozs Souffle Ramekins

Struesel

3/4 cup All Purpose flour
1 cup sugar
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1 pinch salt
1/2 cup margarine

Method:

1. -In a bowl, combine the first 5 ingredients and mix. Well.
2. -Wash your hands, cut the margarine into the dry ingredients by sifting until the mixture resembles wet sand.

Baked Apple and Ginger

2 tbsp margarine
4 tbsp sugar, plus an additional 4 tbsp
4 Fiji apples, small diced
1 1/2 tbsp All Purpose flour
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp grated ginger

Method:

1. -Pre-heat an oven to 350 degrees. lightly grease the ramekin using the margarine.
2. -Pour the 1st 4 tbsp of sugar into a greased ramekin and move it over the margarine by tillting the ramekin.
3. -When the 1st ramekin has an even coat of of margarine and sugar, pour the remaining sugar into the 2nd ramekin. Do the same for the remaining 2 ramekins.
4. -In a bowl, combine the remaining 4 tbsp of sugar and the last 4 ingredients. Stir until combined.
5. -Evenly fill the 4 ramekins with this mixture.
6. -Spoon 2-3 tbspof the streusel on top of the apples.
7. -Bake for 30 minutes until the apples are cooked and the streusel has browned.
8. -This is ready to serve.

Salvatore Rizzo, owns and operates De Gustibus. Its curriculum boasts a vast array of cooking classes in almost every style of cuisine. Sal, with his insight and understanding of cooking, asked Chef David some very interesting questions as did a number of those attending the class. Sal’s smile is infectious and his skillful direction of the class amply enhanced it!

Salvatore Rizzo, posing in front of one of three walls filled with photos of some of the great chefs who lectured at De Gustibus

CS

27
Nov
09

Special Events


Talia’s Steakhouse & Bar

668 Amsterdam Avenue (between 92nd & 93rd Streets); New York, NY 10025 – Phone: 212.580.3770

  • Talia’s Steakhouse and Chabad of the Westside of Manhattan, New York are hosting a Friday Night Shabbat Dinner tonight.
  • Talia’s LoungeHouse – Club 613 Featuring DJ STAR, spinning hits from around the world! This celebration will also kick off Talia’s newly added authentic Middle Eastern dishes that will supplement our Classic American Cuisine, brought by their seasoned Chef Victor Naim, bringing in over 20 years of experience. Indulge in beef, chicken, kofta kebabs, homemade hummus and Tahiti and the American burgers and wraps. Doors open at 9:30pm until 4:00am
  • -o-o-)OxO(-o-o-

    T Fusion Steakhouse

    3223 Quentin Road, Brooklyn, NY 11234 — Phone 718.998.0002

  • Saturday NightSweet Tooth Night -
    Free after dinner snacks for every table.
  • Sunday NightAmuse Bouche Night -
    From oven toasted Bruschetta to bite size Mediterranean Beef Cigars.
  • Monday NightLive Jazz Night -
    Buy 1 cocktail and you get a second one at 50% off.
  • Tuesday NightCowboy Rodeo Deal -
    Only $22 for a 16 oz. Bone-in prime rib with Cowboy seasoning, normally sold at $34
  • Wednesday NightPasta Fiesta -
    Make your own pasta and sauce, and get a free plate of Garden Salad.
  • Thursday NightWine Night -
    Complimentary glass of house wine with every entrée.
  • 23
    Nov
    09

    The Joys of Emotional Eating


    Oh, I know we live in a society where body image is paramount and you’re either thin or you’re irrelevant.  And yes, given that we are amongst the top ten fattest nations in the world, we should be weight conscious and not indulge in abnormal eating habits, but exercise regularly and all that. Certainly, we should sublimate our gashmius (physicality) to the higher functions of our being …

    Yet, every once in a while – I propose – coddling the inner child is a laudable, valuable, action. Granted, nothing bests the sweet taam (taste) of Shabbos nor the sound of zmiros lifting you ever higher, but the occasional escape into corporeal weekday bliss, leaving the emotional and physical overload of life’s daily grind behind, is a good thing.

    The hustle and harried hurry of our fast, frequently faceless, hi-tech daily drudgery makes it difficult to be in the moment of any one thing.  So, we often have to steal or create a moment for ourselves. One of my favorite ways to seize that special particle of time is by dining out in style. Dress up or down, whichever makes you feel better, and figure out the type of cuisine you’re in the mood for. Personally, I prefer an eatery that exudes calm and soft lighting; where chef and staff wait on you indulgently, presenting the finest service and cuisine they have to offer. Hopefully, you’re in the company of someone you really want to be with during this stolen moment.

    If you can, leave the kids at home, shut the intruder cell phone, sit back, relax, breathe in, and give yourself over to the sensory delights to come. Start off with a good wine that has some personality, one that complements your disposition. Perhaps a deeply aromatic contemplative wine like one of the following:
    Makhpelah Cabernet/Merlot 2002 from Israel, only a few hundred cases were produced! This wine combines spicy aromas with a touch of vanilla and smoky oak. The well-balanced palate is soft and rich with plum and dark cherry flavors highlighted by fine tannins. For that extra,extra, special occasion, it’s a bit pricey! For the more price conscious, but still very discriminate wine palate, I recommend any of these, Italy’s Borgo Reale – Primitivo di Manduria 2001; France’s Flegman – Merlot 2006, or a South African Rothberg Cellar – Shiraz 2008. Frankly, there are far too many superb kosher wines to fit every mood, every palate, every occasion. You can find the above and hundreds more, at Liquors Galore (1212 Avenue J; Brooklyn, NY 11230; Telephone: 718.333.4168).

    Take in the calming scent of the wine’s perfume; delight in each sip, savoring the rich flavor, allowing your palate to pick up its complex symmetry. Let your body relax, as the liquid soporific hits your bloodstream.

    For starters, I recommend choosing an appetizer or salad that you’ve never tried before like Orchideä’s Spring Fling Salad; perhaps something like T Fusion‘s Pan Seared Sweetbreads or Solo‘s Barbeque Short Rib Spring Roll. Discern the distinctive flavors within. Redefine your stomach’s state of satiety by trading quantity with quality and variety of taste. Allow the sensual mixing of fresh textures and subtle tones and spices on your tongue and taste buds. Observe the placement of food, the artistry and color and let it become a true binge of the senses.

    For the main dish, if you’re watching those calories, pick a fish or chicken dish prepared in a way you’ve never tasted or wouldn’t make at home. when it comes to fish few can beat the imagination or IMITATE the meat-like look and taste at Plaza Dining (downstairs at Boro Park’s Plaza Hotel). If you’re a meat lover like I am, go for the steak if it’s really what you’ve got the yen for.

    We particularly enjoyed Prime Grill’s Black Angus Steak, and the Delmonico Steak at Bistro Grill. Order a notch higher on the temperature time as fine restaurants tend to grill a bit on the rarer side. If you’re out with friends be a good sharer, and sample each other’s dishes. It can get ugly with the really delectable, so be prepared to fight them off with fork or skewer if they become voracious.

    I’m usually too full by dessert time to get territorial.  Here a morsel of some heavenly delight is sufficient. Nothing alters vexation like a great dessert. We loved Les MaraisCrème Brûlée, Gusto Va Mare‘s Double Truffle and u cafe‘s Tricolor Cake.

    Finally, if you’re still not convinced, contemplate this with your latte: “There are people who strictly deprive themselves of each and every eatable, drinkable, and smokable which has in any way acquired a shady reputation. They pay this price for health. And health is all they get for it. How strange it is. It is like paying out your whole fortune for a cow that has gone dry.Mark Twain (1835 – 1910)

    So eat and enjoy!

    SYR




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